Rank choice of three turntables

Actually, it just so happens I have some experience with all 3 brands

Micro-Seiki

I briefly played with a Micro-Seiki 1000 that was at VAS for customer pickup, picked it up, tapped it here and there, it seems quite solid, impressive, but that’s it, didn’t hear it, but if I liked the look, I would expect it to perform well, I find the arm mount clever and it seemed totally solid. No plinth means the dust cover will need to be very tall and carefully placed, no locating bimps to assist when lowering like my JVC Plinth has.

Technics SP-15 (not 10)

I gave my friend a Technics SP-15 that I bought from Harvey’s used shelf way back when. It had a Grace arm. During covid, we both upgraded our systems, he took my suggestion and bought an EPA-B500 tonearm base, with an S arm wand with removable headshell. I installed it, and he bought a SUT and was finally able to use his Goldring Eroica LX MC cartridge which he previously only heard here. I just re-calibrated everything a week ago, changed the cartridge to a Grace MM we both like more than the Goldring. He did have to replace his SP-15’s power switch, happily Kevin at KAB lives in walking distance from my house, easy fix.

JVC, now years of trouble free experience with my TT81

I just modified the base of the long tonearm, re-installed it yesterday, all good, tomorrow I will switch it for the JVC UA-7082 arm which I took apart (after buying the 1/16" allen wrench that I needed). I’ll take some photos and measurements, re-assemble, install it in place of the long black arm. I installed/played it briefly prior to taking it apart, it’s totally impressive, I wish the headshell fitting had azimuth adjustment like the Micro Seiki 505 arms do.

The two headshells that came with my Vintage AT160ml cartridges allow azimuth adjustment like this one

These headshells have only two allowable positions for the cartridge. Rather than slots, they have two sets of tapped threads ready to receive the dedicated screws whose lengths fit the cartridge flange, a clean look, nothing visible from above: but not enough variability when using non-oem tonearms to get specific overhang and angle a speck if needed for null points alignment.

I just realized I can have my friend convert them to slots for me.

Great insight from everyone. I love that set up Elliot!! I wish I had the larger plinth for the Victor table as I have wanted to tryout my 12" VPI Fatboy Gimbal. 

I own the JVC QL-10 and it seems to work fine. I have not officially tried it out as I am in the middle of selling my house and acquired it recently. 

The SP-10 I bought with a AT-1503 for $25 at a radio station sale last year. They stated that it does not hold speed, which I confirmed. 

I had an opportunity to purchase the DDX-1500 but I think the price is a little out of reach. I like that I can add multiple arms of different lengths to it. It also has a heavier platter. 

Does platter weight really matter with DD's? I think it is mostly a concern of ringing, but I'm skeptical about that. 

I also have a TT-71 from a JVC-QL-A7 with a busted arm. I kept in case the TT-101 goes the way of the Dodo. 

I'm trying to scale things down because moving these guys around is a pain (mainly the packing). 

I'm becoming more of a fan MM cartridges, because they are much better than MC die hards give them credit for and I'm getting tired of paying top dollar for rebuilds. 

Elliot, how do you like that Lustre 801?

Lewm, any advise on the Victor TT-101? Is there a method of polishing out the discoloration on the side of the platter? 

Thanks for all this great information.

I love the Acos Lustre GST-801, it is my favorite arm, I wish they made a long version. It is the only one I change both arm height and anti-skate while playing, it is that smooth. The headshell fitting allows a bit of twist when loose to adjust azimuth and firms up when tightened, even though I would prefer Micro Seiki's adjustable fitting. I use the mirror method for azimuth, a mini-level on the headshell, an acrylic block with grid .... a mixture of techniques, and the blank side lp method to see skate and the effects while adjusting anti-skate force.

The UA-7082 top anti-skate dial is so smooth and precise, my new favorite adjuster, I changed it while playing, but the arm height needs two hands, thus tool-free but not while playing. 

It’s about far more than ringing,

I think the heavy and solid cast iron platter of my Thorens TD124 was one reason it produced the best bass I ever had, not just inertia for speed stability which is important in belt or idler wheel drive, but solid,

10lbs of cast iron, my instincts say better than 10lbs of acrylic .... perhaps better than 20lbs of arylic, I never had/heard that, just instincts

I wish my JVC TT81 had 10lbs of cast iron, or something as solid but non-magnetic.

the sandwich pair of 1/4" thick iron plates in it’s plinth are part of what I like about the Luxman PD-444 design I helped my friend acquire and set up.