Pre for TAD-60


Hi,

I'm looking for a sub $2,000 pre to match with my TAD-60. (I would prefer something under $1000 to hear if a tube pre is the right idea.) I've considered getting a used TAD-150. Currently run the TAD mostly through Placette passive (but sometimes directly from unmodded DAC-AH/Sony 595 or Cary 306/200). Sound emanates from Gallo 3.1s. Stock EL34s (have also used Shuguang KT-88s). I usually run in ultralinear. I've tried triode but find it too recessed and tame (would prefer the sound to be between ultralinear and triode).

I immediately fell in love with the TAD-60 and continue to be impressed. But of course, over time you want more of what you don't hear and don't want some of what you can hear. Hence, my situation.

With the placette pre the sound is slightly chiseled, a little flinty, a touch of glare to the treble (I've become especially treble sensitive in recent years), dimensionality and imaging are good. Great midrange with the EL34s, smoother, more liquid treble and tighter, deeper bass with KT-88s but the middle kind of drops off and gets soft, less pronounced. The KT-88s are generally warmer but slightly less detailed than EL34s. When I bypass the pre I get a warmer, more harmonic quality. So, to get to my point, I would like:

what the KT-88s give me with more voluptuous midrange
to be somewhere between ultralinear and triode sound quality
to have more of the smooth, liquid (less chiseled) sound quality of the amp sans passive pre
a little more dimensionality and soundstage (I'm not sure there's ever enough)

Any help will be appreciated.
Bob
holderlin
After receiving my Linestage 2A SE preamp from Dr. Lloyd Peppard (www.mapletreeaudio.com) I am finally jumping off of the audio merry-go-round. This preamp uses octal-based tubes, has a separate power supply, is wired point-to-point, and you can specify a different gain for each input (up to three, if you wish), plus two outputs. Its sound is amazing and puts me into the music with ease and comfort, without fear of wondering if I'm missing any of the music on either end of the frequency spectrum. And the mids are THERE. All of this for only $650 new! A precious gemstone in audio gear for the price of costume jewelry. Dyn-o-mite!
Bob,

Great thread! I just received my TAD60 last week and I am not using a preamp. I only use a CD player and have debated getting a preamp. I think the sound is very good by itself but it seems a little unrefined (as you have pointed out). I have just started to tube roll and I am surprised by how substantial the changes can be. I take it from your comments that a preamp is a must to take this amp to another level. I look forward to seeing how you do.

Rockadanny - Don't take this the wrong way but do you work for mapletreeaudio? Your comments come aross as a sales pitch.

Thanks,

Bud
Bud,

I really love the TAD-60. I fit it into a pretty "analytical" system (Cary CDP, Placette passive pre, Gallos 3.1 speakers). It did a great job of improving detail while reducing the edginess of the sound and giving that tube depth to the sound. Given my system, however, it took more than just the intro of the TAD. The addition of a tube pre really pushed things in the direction I wanted (harmonics, detail, soundstage, imaging). I had been looking for some time for a TAD-150 but couldn't get one used. The minimax is a good combo for me because it adds a 'tad' bit of warmth to the TAD-60 overall sonic signature (along with the other qualities mentioned above).

I do recommend rolling the input tubes. I have heard less improvement (perhaps no less difference) by rolling the output tubes. I think Paul chose wisely with the Svetlanas.

Bob
Bud,
No prob. No, I am not affiliated with Mapletree Audio in any way. I am just so danged impressed with the quality of my preamp from Dr. Peppard that I could spit! And only $650 new!? Actually, mine was $675 because a slight upgrade to another part. I asked the Dr. why his preamp was so good for such a relatively affordable price, and why so many preamps out there are so much larger, complicated, and more expensive? He replied (paraphrased), "You just have to use the best tubes (12SN7) operated at the correct operating points, simple circuitry, high quality passive components (Black Gates and Auricaps, precision resistors), and short wire lengths. Advertising is very expensive, as is custom chassis, knobs, fancy connectors, etc., and have no effect on the sound." Makes perfect sense to me.