Power Amplifier Longevity


Hi All, 
I am venturing into the separate component world and was wondering how long a good power amp typically lasts.  I may have access to some older Lexicon CX and LX series amplifiers.  However, since they are discontinued and nearly 20 years old from what I understand, should I be concerned with how much longer they will last?  If they do need servicing, is this something that is available at a reasonable cost?  Or should I invest in newer equipment?

Budget is a concern for me which is why I am interested in these older (higher quality) amps at a reduced price versus spending the same amount on something newer, but lower quality.

At this time, I have a Marantz AV8802A and Vienna Acoustics speakers. 
Main L/R - Mozart Grand
Center - Maestro Grand
4 Surrounds - Waltz Grand

I thank you in advance for any advice provided on this subject.
Brian


brianb339
@jollygreenaudiophile2Talk about misinformation, you are full of it. Since when in the electronics world is heat a friend of ANY electronics?? Since NEVER. What are you talking about "transducers" in an amp for? Are you converting liquid flow into a 4-20 ma signal or pressure into a 4-20? maybe you are using your "transducers" to convert temperature into a 4-20 or a 1-5V signal. Give us a break. I refurb. vintage amps as a second income, caps don't just fail cus they "burst". most old caps are fine in a vintage amp, but a lot are way out of spec, some are even open with zero capactiance. This is why its standard to do the entire amp with new electrolytic caps to avoid any trouble later. 
To the guy who thinks using an amp is too hard on the caps, um... the opposite is true, show me an old amp that's been sitting in the closet for 20 years & how those caps are holding up. Old caps need to have voltage applied now & then, like reforming. Standard procedure where I work is to reform the large caps in a VFD every 3 years if they aren't being used or sold. I also use caps that are at least 10v higher in rating, using the 105 deg. for those in power section or near heat sinks.
Yea so I'm one of those guys who repalces a lot of electrolytic caps, but I work mostly on stuff that is from the 70s & early 80s, the good stuff. Both my Mcintosh power amps, one a MC2100 is still a daily driver since high school, are still running strong, so are all 4 of my Kenwood L-O7M's
So go buy some new equipment, if that is what you are into, spend 10K or more on a 7.1 channel for your TV, but its just a TV, not a hi fidelity 2 channel stereo.
I have a fondness for Class A amps and so paid a fair bit when one of them went south on me, but the particular model I have is quite rare so I didn't even think about not having it serviced. It was over 30 years old. I have two other amps of the same model still going strong, as well as an early Jeff Rowland amp (also 1980s) that still serves in my AV system.

On the current inrush issue, I have an early Belles class A amp that welded the contacts on the switch together due to that. After replacing the switch for the third time, I left it welded together and turn it on and off using a heavy duty power bar!
I have a McIntosh MC207... there 7ch amp that has been in use since 2004....16 years old. It was a dedicated theater amp that for around 7 years did not get used but a few times a year. For the last 2 years it is now in the den system and is used everyday. It still looks and works like new. 
Brian
I have both an Anthem MRX 710 and an Emotiva XPA 5 for sale.  I simply don't do surround media anymore.  If interested let me know.  Both with very low miles and in excellent condition.
And the blind man yelled, "The caps are drying out. The caps are drying out."
Ha ha, Finally a "decent", conversation on the subject.

But again, many seem happy simply to put two cents in.
 And some are worth more!
Heaudio? .....So you've designed electrical equipment and brought it to market?
 It was "UL" approved and then of course, "UL-rated? But alas,"You", did not think to have any IR limiting of any type. Added for any correction or means of protection? Well, since that really doesn't mean anything. Like your words stating that I am wrong about this. Which don't mean much either....since....

 Actually?, The odds are quite high that you "Did", in fact design IR limiting into whatever you are fooling with and bringing to market. "Knowingly OR not! If the electrical device or system followed the NEC, and any other appropriate, local authorities and their addendum, "If any". And you worked utilizing the approved guidelines, materials. Tables and math, governing electrical devices, with the same intent. And the installation and "use of". In the, "Plan, build, use. Glossary and Index." sections were also utilized with an good understanding of the NEC's, "Intent".  All in accordance with the currently, "Adopted", version of the NEC?
Then you did.  Because "We" did. Otherwise it's a bit hard to get anything "UL rated"...….
 Like the guy whom invented sand? I don't believe he designed in all of "sands" insulating properties necessarily on purpose . But since he followed basic "Physics", in the design phase of said, "sand"? 
Sand now, "has", insulative properties.....
 Just sayin....

Heaudio? 
 Also, a bus fuse, "As in ANY bus fuse". Is not IR limiting?
 I guess they are just wasting our time with the fact that they ALL have an precise "IR value", at which point they fail. (Always listed in the device, "properties"), huh?  
Which is why I have used them in designs as "Temp. emergency, "IR" breaks" in switchgear systems during emergencies.
 Also, the reason for many electrical components in a system being de-rated during design is usually for use as a "Safety Factor". Typically calculated as a proportion. These tended to be, "Pre-60's-80's". Always a minimum of 1:4- 1:5. Dependent on the quality of the product line, name and reputation etc. "These days, if used at all"? " I'll notice a percentage in de-rating specs.…."
Many really do not even know or realize. That any such animal ever existed. "The safety factor as it once was". "Kinda like the declared IR value of a fuse. And it's significance in relation to a specific electrical device or system in part OR it's entirety.