Mods for Avantgarde speakers

Update... As mentioned, I have the Duo Omega G2. The midrange horn is up top with the bass cabinet and tweeter under that, all mounted to the frame.

I settled on removing the holding screws of the bass cabinet, letting it rest on the frame below, and sliding it back about 20 cm to time align the tweeter with the midrange horn voice coils (as far as I could tell). I put some temporary books under the back of the bass cabinet with the front of the bass cabinet resting on the rear frame support.

If you look at the side, the front bottom of the cabinet is about 1 inch in front of the inside vertical side support. I angled the cabinet back with removing a book from the rear of the cabinet. I can just see the top of the bass cabinet when in the sweet spot.

What did I hear? Much better continuity. More smoothness and a natural sound. Before, there was a little bite and hardness, which is now gone. Doing the above also betters the bass timing with the midrange horn. I likewise did not hear any problem with the tweeter diffracting off the midrange horn. In fact, from my listening position, I can see the whole tweeter with space between it and the midrange horn. This mod is also pleasing in appearance.

This is a very easy mod to do. Later, I will experiment with spiking the bass cabinet.

CORRECTION...If you look at the side, the front bottom of the cabinet is JUST EVEN TO THE BACK vertical side support.

I have exactly the same speakers.
are you sure you can remove subs from the frame?
it might be a great idea

Yes, there are big knobs on the sides that you will see that have a screw going through to the frame and into the bass cabinet. Very easy to remove, just turn the big knobs counter clockwise. I put magazines under the speaker cabinet so that the screws would not bind from the weight of the cabinet as I unscrewed them. I am sitting here listening right now and can say that I have never heard better.

My next step is to find a way to spike the bass cabinets to the floor. The height needs to be 4" to clear the frame.
I looked at Mapleshade, but theirs are 3" for their large footers. I might need to add wood across the bottom underside of the bass cabinets, then the footers to that to get the 4 inches needed. I am thinking two brass footers in the rear and one in the middle front.

Another consideration is to have the front a little higher than the rear for better tweeter alignment.
Another benefit of this mod is that the bass vibrations from the cabinet cannot reach the midrange horn since the bass cabinet is no longer attached to the frame.

It is very interesting.
i should try this myself.
in terms of support, I've experimented with various combinations, and found, that my current combination to be the best.
I have Stillpoints Ultra 5s in place of the OEM spikes ( had to make custom adaptors to screw Ultras in), speakers sit on Symposium platforms with some ebony wood plates (about 1/4" thick) in between the Ultras and Symposium.

For what it's worth...

My Uno's (2.0) are on Audioplan Antispikes and I plan to alter things like this: subwoofers on sorbothane blobs (I have a wooden floor, placed on a concreet base with felt in inbetween). This will stop the transfer of vibration into the floor. Under the supports for the tweeter/midrange, you van put spikes and such as they are blessed with threaded holes. By loosening the screws between the supports for the tweeter/midrange and the subwoofer, there will be some de-coupling.

Added bonus in my view is the fact that it makes leveling of the tweeter/midrange easier as there will be three points to adjust iso four. Placing the speaker exactly upright with precise tilt is extremely important in my view.

Last but not least: someone once told me that the subwoofers themselves are not that well damped. Looking inside you see that there is one sheet of damping foam present. This person had done some experimenting and suggested to put the damping foam in the back of the enclosure and to fill the enclosure with "Angel hair". This will lower the Qts and will lower the resonance frequency somewhat.

My 0,02 euro...

Hi,
If you have older version of Uno or Duo(before G2) it's very easy to time align horns without any modification. Just turn the tweeter horn around(180 degrees) and push it back about 20 cm. Use two(left and right) front holes and screw it on the stands.  To do this you need some books(you can remove them later) to support the horn and help of a friend(never do it alone) Of course be very careful.
I can provide pics if someone is interested.

Time to resurrect this thread and reach out to Duo users who have upgraded the crossover of the Duo Omega. I understand Duomike replaced the Cap and CPC circuit after upgrading to Omega spec but is it a straight replacement, like for like value or is the CPC module adding capacitance parallel to the Mundorf.

has anyone recapped the sub225 amplifier? I’m thinking the existing caps, now 15 yrs old could be getting towards end of life.

any thoughts.
DRD45

hello. im the owner of an old uno series 2, and i just opened the woofer cabinet just to see if i can do something about the hum and pop when I switch the woofer off when i discovered a whole bunch... well, ill just let the photos say it...

https://ibb.co/R9GBWsw
https://ibb.co/4R3Bffp
https://ibb.co/Hx8Kwxs
https://ibb.co/ZKKGY5z
https://ibb.co/qMsy9qX
https://ibb.co/MBfpTw0

All the cabinet walls has some dried glue marks on all the surfaces, and nothing else. Looks like they use egg crate foam. My question is, can I replace the foam with those normal egg foam for the room which is similar looking to the one inside the cabinet?

Or if someone did it before, do you line it with felt first before putting in the egg crate foam? Any tangible improvements?

Hi

An old post but hopefully someone here can help! I have Avantgarde Duos without the Omega upgrades and am looking for the values for the crossover components or a circuit diagram. My crossovers were upgraded by the previous owner with audio consulting components but I am finding the high end to be a little too relaxed for my taste or more the sound is very "honky" at louder volumes.

Thanks

Hi Mjhill,
Capacitor 2.8uf
Inductor 0.68mhy

i used Miflex Copper 600v as the new 250v was not available at the time plus I now bypass with Duelund JDM 0.01uf Sn/Cu cap.
the inductor is Jensen copper foil. 
Unfortunately the big copper cap is too big to go inside the tube so I mounted it externally. I could have built an external box but it just seemed easier for me. Perhaps the smaller 250v cap will go inside the tube.

Big increase in naturalness and frequency extension without glare. 
I also changed the binding posts while I was modding and damped the tubes. For completion sake I installed SR Blue fuses in the subs.
Would have liked to recap the bass amps but a bit beyond my skills.

cheers
DRD45