Yes, I've done it a few times.
- First, loosen the gold plated speaker terminal tighteners at the back of the speaker and let the crossover board (inside) rest in place, unsecured. (The crossover is mounted to the terminals inside the cabinet).
- Next, carefully remove the rubber ring of the BOTTOM driver. Be very careful that you don't nick the edge of the veneer. I would use the back of my fingernails pressed against the veneer to gently push the rubber ring towards the centre of the speaker with with one hand while using the other to grasp the rubber ring once you've created enough of a gap with your first hand.
- Now find a table or chair that is slightly lower than the height of the lower edge of the bottom driver. Place a folded towel on top of the table. You will need this surface to rest the speaker upon when you remove it, and the towel will help stabilize and protect the driver. It can be a bit awkward because the driver will sort of be dangling from the speaker wires. If the table is too low it will be hanging from the wires knocking against your precious veneer.
:-o
- With the rubber ring removed and the table ready in front of the speaker, undo the 4 screws (tip - undo the top screws last - that way the speaker will not fall around as you are undoing the bottom screws)
- Once you have removed all of the screws, carefully pull out the driver and rest it on the towel. You will also have to remove some of the rolled up damping material from inside the cabinet. Try to remember how it was placed so you can replace as you found it.
- Now reach in and grab the crossover. (you may want to hire a midwife for this part)
- Now you will have to unsolder and resolder the connections as per the labels on the passive crossover board. You will also have to cut the jumpers. You will have to do this while the little bugger is dangling from the internal wiring.
IMPORTANT - when you cut the jumpers try to make a clean cut and then gently bend the metal to the side until they are not touching. If you ever want to reconfigure your Keilidhs back to the passive, you will be cursing if you have to replace these jumpers because you tore them out.
Also, do not overheat anything - you can damage the components if you cook them for too long.
I hope this wasn't too convoluted. Good luck. If you want to ask me any further questions feel free to e-mail me.
- First, loosen the gold plated speaker terminal tighteners at the back of the speaker and let the crossover board (inside) rest in place, unsecured. (The crossover is mounted to the terminals inside the cabinet).
- Next, carefully remove the rubber ring of the BOTTOM driver. Be very careful that you don't nick the edge of the veneer. I would use the back of my fingernails pressed against the veneer to gently push the rubber ring towards the centre of the speaker with with one hand while using the other to grasp the rubber ring once you've created enough of a gap with your first hand.
- Now find a table or chair that is slightly lower than the height of the lower edge of the bottom driver. Place a folded towel on top of the table. You will need this surface to rest the speaker upon when you remove it, and the towel will help stabilize and protect the driver. It can be a bit awkward because the driver will sort of be dangling from the speaker wires. If the table is too low it will be hanging from the wires knocking against your precious veneer.
:-o
- With the rubber ring removed and the table ready in front of the speaker, undo the 4 screws (tip - undo the top screws last - that way the speaker will not fall around as you are undoing the bottom screws)
- Once you have removed all of the screws, carefully pull out the driver and rest it on the towel. You will also have to remove some of the rolled up damping material from inside the cabinet. Try to remember how it was placed so you can replace as you found it.
- Now reach in and grab the crossover. (you may want to hire a midwife for this part)
- Now you will have to unsolder and resolder the connections as per the labels on the passive crossover board. You will also have to cut the jumpers. You will have to do this while the little bugger is dangling from the internal wiring.
IMPORTANT - when you cut the jumpers try to make a clean cut and then gently bend the metal to the side until they are not touching. If you ever want to reconfigure your Keilidhs back to the passive, you will be cursing if you have to replace these jumpers because you tore them out.
Also, do not overheat anything - you can damage the components if you cook them for too long.
I hope this wasn't too convoluted. Good luck. If you want to ask me any further questions feel free to e-mail me.