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Fidelity Research FR-64x

 Fidelity Research FR-64x.....(with silver wire ).  Is this arm still considered  viable today ?

offnon57
nandric's avatar
nandric
4,086 posts
 

Dear chakster, the only way ''to know more'' is to try both versions

with your FR-7f. With FR-64 S you can use the ''ordinary weight''.

I hope that our member Syntax who really knows everything better

will ''shine in''.

mulveling's avatar
mulveling
1,895 posts
 
I just snagged the FR64S with original B-60 base. I hope its bearings/etc are in good condition. I’ve had my FR64fx for years on a SOTA, and it certainly doesn’t feel like a "poor man’s" version anything -- just a fabulous arm with Koetsu stones and the Ortofon Cadenza Bronze (it’s lower compliance than the higher-end Ortofons, which I think makes it a perfect match for the FR64fx). That said, I had to scratch that 64S itch because of its reputation with Koetsu. I’ll be pairing this with my Coralstone and Clearaudio Master Innovation.

For those with FR64* experience, what the heck headshells do you guys like? It seems difficult to find a top quality headshell that meets all the requirements (e.g. the Clearaudio one doesn’t seem to have a finger-lift??). I’ve got 3 original FR headshells, and they look cool but seem mediocre at best.

Also, what kind of alignment curves do you guys like? I have a Mint LP for FR64, but it was made for the SOTA and I cracked it trying to fit on the Innovation spindle (I know, I know). Also I’ll have the headache of getting an arm board made for that B60 base, getting the right spindle-pivot distance, etc...ugh!
offnon57 OP
72 posts
 
poor man is ok with me ......with my FR 64 fx  I used a Grado cartridge that the guy I bought the arm from had mounted and what did I know.....not sure what Grado...black body with the JR logo. Thinking I paid $100 for it and new it would have been $200.
Many moons ago. I had a Hafler dh100 pre amp with phono.
A Hafler dh 220 amp driving Quad 57s that I bought for $700 from,as it turns out,Roy Harris   aka mr tennis .  According to my true audiophile cousin-of my- wife from whom I got the Haflers......I was 
very lucky that everything matched up. Not much more enlightened
today but have learned a little .....but what music I heard from it all
......a Pink Triangle turntable I got for $150....all this I'm repeating from earlier in this thread.....the arm was $150 .  Luck was with me.
   so now I spin cds happily on an Eastern Electric cdp, and my Pink and  Fidelity Research wait for the time I finally get up and get back
to spinning  records......one of these days. I am the op,so i thought I should jump in, but I'm keeping
a low profile in fear that my lack of knowledge and expertise will be exposed......and much respect to those here with the tech savvy ,
   I'm green with envy but it appears to be my lot in life. I never let it
stop me from enjoying the music .....  Hoping the response here will
give me analog inspiration once again . Lots of lps I'd love to hear again. 
tkr
100 posts
 
I own both the FR 64 FX and the FR 64 S.
Great arms, both of them. It seems that more and more people are aware of them, and the are becoming ever more expensive. I agree with @mulveling that a stone-body Kuetsu sounds great in an FR 64 FX, silver cable version.
I run an almost 40 year old Kondo Audio Note Io ii in my FR 64 S, and on many recordings it is pure magic.

nandric's avatar
nandric
4,086 posts
 

@mulveling , By the mentioned (German) Magazine the first

recommendation was to change Stevenson in Baerwald geometry.

I have no idea why the most Japanese tonearms followed

 Stevenson. To get Baerwald the spindle-pivot distance need to be

increased to 231.5 mm which result in eff. length of 246 mm.

You can ask Yip by Mint tractor to produce one for you. You

should also provide him with the exact spindle dimension of your

TT because those are not ''identical''.

The VTF adjuster by FR-64 S uses an spring which also provide

dynamic function. This spring is ''loaded with grease'' which can

harden in an cold surroundings or by lack of use. The best way

to cure this is to put the arm in the sun in the window

(aka''watchmaker method''). See btw the post by Lewm.

My own experience with headhells is peculiar because I own

many carts and need consequently many headshells. The

most I own are variations of Jelco ( Zuprime, Sumiko.etc.)

about 13 g , magnesium and with headsehll wire).

For my ''top carts'' I use Orsonic AV-101 (heavy kind), Clear

audio which is Orsonic replica but with very good wire and

the best clips I know. Then for the carts without screw threads

AT headshells with threads at the under side. Those should

have ''movable'' 4 pin connectors for azimuth and stylus

adjustment.

BTW any carpenter can drill the right hole for your B-60.

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