Details for bi-amping


I am going for a horizontal bi-amping of my system intending to use two tube monoblocs for the mids and the highs and two SS monoblocks for the lows. The issue is that I have to have the same gain of the Pre-amps driving all the four monos in order to avoid a difference. Some Pre-amps have a pair of outputs allowing them to drive two pairs of monoblocks. Would that be a good solution? Would that be a solution at all giving that the tube monos and the SS monos would most probably have different output power? Would the use of a single Pre-amp with two pairs of monos negatively affect the sound quality? Or I should go for two Pre-amps trying to match theeir gains? I will very much apreciate any hint. Tnx.
nikmilkov
"Contrastingly, if you bi-amp (SIC) with a passive crossover (e.g., use the crossovers built into the speakers), then each pair of monoblocks will amplify the full audio band. For example, the monoblocks for the woofer will be amplifying the full audio band but at the passive crossover, the mid/high freq's will be filtered out and essentially lost (the same thing happens for the monoblocks for the midrange/tweeter, except that the low freq's. will be filtered out and essentially lost)."

A common misconception. Yes, the entire frequency band is presented to each poweramp, but the 2 ends of the frequency band are NOT amplified equally, because the crossover presents a rapidly rising impedance within the filter (rolled-off) band. That's why one 'saves' amp power when passively biamping.
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Either way, passive or active, you have to decide if you want seams or holes in your system response or whether you want it "tunable" with an active crossover. As mentioned previously, if you can remove the passive built-in crossover easily from your speaker, then, since you plan on spending some serious money on amps, I would imagine that an active crossover isn't outside your price rance, then definitely go for active. If you don't want active, then you would need amps of equal specifications or the same amps. otherwise you definitely will have seams that you will notice. So, after all the posts, the choices are really simple. Active, you can get different amps for low/high and adjust with the crossover. solid state for the low and tube for high depending on your listening desires. Passive, you get the same amps for high/low or amps that are pretty close in specifications and you are good to go. It really isn't rocket science. It is only complicated if you allow it to be. You have two choices.

If you can easily remove the passive crossover, like my Martin Logan Monolith III's it is simple to remove them, since they are external passive crossovers and insert an active crossover to the system (which is what I did), and borrow an active crossover and amps and experiment to make your decision. I am a strong believer that when one is paying a large amount of cash for this type of equipment, borrow equipment first and take it home, insert it into your system and hear how it sounds in your system before purchasing. Asking others for their opinion is okay, however, that is what it is, their opinion. Your's is the only one that matters.

Find good dealers and stores that will allow you to take equipment home for a home demo first. They will have used/consignment/demo equipment or new equipment and take your credit card info. give you the equipment for a week or so and allow you to make an educated decision based on home listening.

Also, get on-line and check. I would bet that there are some active crossovers out there specifically designed for your speakers.

enjoy
Realy tempted to try the active option as more efficient. I have two pairs of speakers PD 80 by Tyler acoustics and von Shweikert VR 4 Jr on two systems. As all of you, guys, know both are 3 way. One pair will be biamped depending on which one is easier to eliminate the built in crossovers. My choice may also depend on and I may take into consideration also other specs and details for each one pair of speakers leading to more rewarding results. I will address the manufacturing companies. My preference now is for the PD's because they are very efficient and easy to drive with less powerful tube amplifiers. A low output tube amplifier can be built on a very simple scheme which could result in a very clear and detailed sound. Last but not least a low output tube amp is usually cheaper than a high output tube amp of the same quality. You see the future set up should be built around the speakers that are already in place. Have heard both Ty and Albert are willing to help by advising. Unfortunately my remote location will not allow these companies to perform the crossover's bypass. But if I won't be 100% sure in advance that the things are doable the active way I will go passive. That's my strategy by now. Thank you again for your competent advise.