Dedicated power circuit

All the above are correct and well do wonders for your system. One more thing ,use fuses they are sonically better and well give you a much better result than switches.
steve

42659, can you tell us more about how you terminated the Storm Products wire? I'm curious how you arrange 37 strands between hot, neutral, and ground. Thanks.

I've been following this thread because I want to install a dedicated circuit also. I'm not 100% sure but I think that you need three separate runs of the cable that 42659 is talking about. One 10 gage run for hot, one for neutral and one to ground.

WHEN I first did a dedicated lines they were 12g. solid to 20 amp. switches, at the ic end they were pigy backed to the 2nd ic.Reading other post here on audiogon I changed the whole thing with stagering results and to any considering this should start off the correct way .
Seperate box with ceramic fuses, use the 35 amp they are bigger and well handle monoblocks. I chose 8g braided 3lines one for hot,nueteral and ground since i have 2 ic i have 6 lines this is dedicated, don,t let your electician pigy back,.
I think garfish brightness is due to switches ,fuses well be consideribly smoother, a lesson learned the hard way
10 g is minnimum for dedicated lines
steve

I ran my own dedicated line: three strands - the usual black, white & green (with some advice from Mike VansEvers) using #10 solid copper THHN. Line them up straight, & tape the ends all together. Put that combo into your power drill chuck & fasten the other loose ends tight in a vice. Now spin the whole bundle slowly until tight like a spring. It will unwind a lot when you power off the drill. Exchange ends & finish the twist. Run this bundle from the fusebox to a dedicated outlet. BTW: a 20A ceramic fuse sounded much warmer & smoother than the glass fuse.
Regarding directionality: you just look at the printing on the wire's insulation & ensure that all 3 conductors are aligned identically. One direction may sound better than the opposite direction - you can try running the bundle either way (first install it temporarily of course). Re: the twisted conductors - this relates to something about the magnetic flux fields canceling each other. You'll find that some upgrade AC cords are made this way too.
Of course you must run this twisted wire bundle in a conduit (or in 3/8" Greenfield if code permits - much easier to work with). Regarding surge protection & filtering: I have a big Joslyn gas-discharge primary arrestor, across the whole house' primary, in the basement. Then a G.E. MOV (metal oxide varistor) in parallel across my Wattgate 381 outlet (mounted in a box) upstairs. MOV's are not supposed to degrade the sound; Chang Lightspeed uses them internally for transient protection. I also use two Chang Lightspeeds (a 3200 and a 9900 Amp) in addition to some pretty seriously expensive upgrade AC cords. The dedicated line sounded even better with the Chang's than it did standalone.
I'm gleefully satisfied with the results so far. Dramatic improvements over the house wiring! I polished the ceramic fuse clean & bright with crocus cloth, then applied Kontact. Same with the #10 solid conductors' ends, just like I do with all my AC cables. If you use anything larger than #10 it becomes a bear to work with. #10 is stiff too, but at least it's still workable. Also consider isolated grounding.