Choosing a new turntable


Hello to everyone. I’m in the process of wanting to replace my turntable. My three choices are 1- Wand Master black, 2- Mofi Masterdeck and 3- Dr. Fiekert  Woodpecker. I would appreciate any experiences anyone here has with any of these TT .Thanks!

vicdior

Thorens/SME similar appearance to your 3 options

ebay, search for:

Vintage Thorens TD520 3012-R Turntable With Power Adapter Operation Confirmed

2 out of 3,

2. removable headshell, the renowned SME 3012 arm (I loved my 3009 on Thorens TD124)

3. dustcover

drilled or undrilled armboards readily available.

 

Thanks for all your comments, am leading towards the Wand. A friend of mine has one and he’s very impressed by it. Apparently, price- value you get much more for your money.He has it with the Hana Umami Blue Cartridge. I will listen to it shortly.

As far as Vintage, I will be selling my Roksan Xerxes 1989 with Artemiz tone arm and a black Corus cartridge soon. I loved the TT but it is a delicate TT  for me ,so not too patient in handling best left to someone who’s knowledgeable with vintage gear. That is the reason I m looking to buy a recent good turntable.

@elliottbnewcombjr I hate to pop your bubble, but one great tonearm is way better than two cheap ones. Dust covers should be isolated and hinged so they can be used during play. A good thick acrylic dust cover can attenuate sound up to 10 dB at some frequencies further isolating the cartridge from sound. Removable head shells are a terrible thing to do to a cartridge and it's meager signal. Every contact degrades the signal just a little. The right way to wire a tonearm is a single cable cartridge clips to RCAs or XLRs at the phono stage end. The Schroder CB is an example of such an arm. The Thorens TD 1600 is a turntable with an isolated dust cover done the right way. The dust cover is mounted to the plinth not the chassis carrying the tonearm and platter. 

@vicdior Of the three turntables you have chosen the MoFi MasterDeck is the best as long as you place it on an isolation platform with a hinged dustcover. I suggest you look at the Thorens TD1600. It has a great dust cover, it is properly suspended and isolated and it has a fine tonearm. 

Turntables are vibration measuring devices and they do not care where the vibration is coming from. There is always a large amount of vibration in the environment at low frequencies. I call this environmental rumble which you can easily see if you have a turntable that is not properly isolated. Place the stylus down on a stationary record, turn the volume all the way up and watch the woofer or subwoofer. It should remain absolutely stationary, any movement is a problem. The only way to isolate a turntable from environmental rumble is to suspend the chassis that carries the tonearm and platter. The suspension should have a resonance frequency below 3 Hz. 

The best value in a mid priced turntable is the Thorens TD 1600. It has a fine suspension, an isolated dust cover that should be used during play and a fine tonearm. Next up would be a SOTA Sapphire with a Kuzma  4 Point 9. 

The Wand tonearm is a terrible design. It is a unipivot arm, the worst bearing configuration. It is being used because it is cheap. The Wand arm tube is a little pipe organ. Again, this is a simple cheap way of doing an arm wand. It is also ugly as h-ll. The turntable also suffers from some bad design choices. The oversized platter keeps you from using a 9" tonearm. 9" is the optimum length for a tonearm. Longer arms have higher moments of inertia and higher effective masses. Longer arm wands are not as stiff as shorter ones. Tracking angle error is a little higher, but the benefits outweigh this resulting in a better tracking and sounding tonearm. Longer arms are made because lay instinct demands them and manufacturers have to sell product.