Anyone familiar with the Kenwood KD 750 turntable?

My former KD-500 is still in use at a friend's, w/ a ADC LMF arm and an aging Blue Point. The -750, AFAIK, came w/ the arm.
The base - showing early research in resonance control - was a mixture of crushed limestone and resin.
The strobe cuts on the platter edge are unkind to knuckles and vinyl. I don't recall any means of adjusting the speed.
I don't recall any info on the stock arm...I went through (3) ADC LMF arms. The arm mounting board was plywood. I have no recollection of rosewood on both these models.
The platter was metal w/o any damping on the underside.
Very reliable, still nice-looking, but as a first TT - unless it were free or nearly so, I'd look at a Pro-Ject or Music Hall.
The 500 I had replaced a Benjamin Miracord 50H.

The KD-750 cabinet is a mixture of outer laminated particle board (Kingrose veneer with piano gloss) over an ARCB base.

The motor is a DC servo motor (torque of 1.5 kg.cm), quartz locked with electric brake, unit has 2 speeds (33 and 45), die-cast alloy platter (5.7lbs), W&F less than 0.022% wrms. Rumble figure of -74dB (weighted DIN) and -55dB (unweighted DIN).

Standard tonearm fitted was an S-type, effective length 245 mm with 15 mm o/h, VTF range 0 to 3 grams, cartridge weight range 4 to 14 grams, adjustable collet chuck on arm base.

Unit power consumption 35 watts, weight 38.6lbs (cabinet weight was 16.5lbs of which the ARCB element was 7.7lbs.

Send me a short mail, I'll supply you with pics and specs.
rgds
Al

An old friend of mine has a Kenwood KD750. The turntable speed becomes unstable when it has been playing for 30mins or so. Has anybody had a similar issue? Have you managed to repair this.?

Experienced slowdown speed, then NO speed from a KD750. No chance in hell repairing one without a service manual. The most complex circuit board I ever seen on a TT. NAND and NOR gates,Hex inverters,Flip-flops,OP Amp,several other ICs
uncrossable, and 4 transistors that are N.L.A.
Mine was a freebie and I'll buy the manual,but wouldn't bother looking at the inards unless you just want to be overwhelmed by complex circuitry. Good luck.