2. home-theater
  3. 1264619243

AC Power Suggestions

I am looking for strategies to power the home theater system listed below. The TV and speakers are in a family room with a media closet/rack directly behind the TV wall (basically a storage area). I started down this path because there are no usable outlets in the media closet (except a 220 volt Sump Pump outlet) so I figured I should call an electrician and have one put in. This opened up a huge can of worms about what type of AC receptacles I should use, should I have a dedicated circuit/line(s) run to the closet, should I use a power conditioner/surge protector/UPS, if so which ones, should the audio be on a different circuit than the video, should the amp go directly in the wall. This is a house built in 1999 with underground wiring in Rochester, MN. In the 30 plus years I have lived in Rochester I have never had or heard of any complaints about the power (brownouts, etc.) I have never had any appliance die from a lightning strike. The only thing I might add to this setup is a beefy high current amp to power the MMG-Fronts, at some point. As you can see, this is not a top-of-the-line system, but not bad for a system that leans heavily toward home theater. However, I do listen to music on this system and would like to get the most I can out of the Maggies for that purpose. I have a limited budget, and therefore am looking for the best “bang-for-buck” way to power the system. Would a Porter Port AC receptacle be a good match for this system? Are dedicated lines necessary and how many? Is surge protection necessary in my situation? Will power conditioning/voltage regulating /UPS produce any noticeable results? Should everything be on the same outlet/circuit or should audio be separated from video or form sources, etc? I have done a lot of forum reading and I just can’t make out what is going to be the best mix for me. Any suggestions?

TV: Pioneer Kuro Non-Elite PDP-5020fd 50” Plasma
Pre: Onkyo TX-SR805 (for DTS-HD MA, TrueDolby decoding)
Amp: Outlaw 7125 (190 watts/4ohms)
Speakers: Magnepan MMG (fronts), MMG-C (center), MMG-W (surrounds)
Sub: Outlaw LFM-1 Plus
Sources: Tivo Series 3
Pioneer BDP-51fd (Blu-ray)
Apple Airport Express (streaming lossless audio)
HTPC (SageTV DVR)
Motorola Converter Box
Accessories: Western Digital My DVR 500GB Expander
Monoprice HDMI Splitter (Split A/V from Blu-ray to TV and Pre-amp)
Linksys 5-port switch (LAN to Tivo, PC, Airport)
2x Computer Case Fans (cooling for Onkyo)
Idealume Paneleight (attached to back of Plasma)
HDE IR Remote Turn-On Plug (for Idealume)
2x APC NET9RM SurgeArrest 9-receptacle Rack Mount Network Power Strips
Cables-to-Go 4030 Remote Control Repeater Kit
cpalcott
cpalcott OP
14 posts
 
Well, I discovered that this storage area already has a dedicated line (1 line straight to the box) with a 125v/20A (T-slot) single receptacle on it, plus a non-dedicated line (connected to other outlets on the other side of the wall) with a duplex 120v/15A outlet on it. The 20A outlet is designated for a sump pump. If I was unable to run anymore lines to this room, what would be the best way to divide my equipment between the two circuits? Or would it be best to have everything on the dedicated 20A circuit? Would the following scenario make sense? If not, how would you divide them?

20A
TV: Pioneer Kuro Non-Elite PDP-5020fd 50” Plasma
Amp: Outlaw 7125 (190 watts/4ohms)
Sub: Outlaw LFM-1 Plus
Pre: Onkyo TX-SR805 (for DTS-HD MA, TrueDolby decoding)
Tivo Series 3
Pioneer BDP-51fd (Blu-ray)
Monoprice HDMI Splitter (Split A/V from Blu-ray to TV and Pre-amp)
Apple Airport Express (streaming lossless audio)

15A
HTPC (SageTV DVR)
Motorola Converter Box
Western Digital My DVR 500GB Expander
Linksys 5-port switch (LAN to Tivo, PC, Airport)
Computer Case Fans (cooling for Onkyo)
Cables-to-Go 4030 Remote Control Repeater Kit
HDE IR Remote Turn-On Plug/Idealume Florescent Paneleight (attached to Plasma)
Work Light
mnnc
175 posts
 
Typically it is ideal to seperate audio sources from video sources concerning their power source. I don't have such luxury but do use different receptacles which are in the same chain. I have not had any noise/video interference. I will in the future/next home have a couple plugs on a separate circuit for audio and likewise for video/tv/cable, etc. Concerning receptacles/plugs...I use ps audio powerports and can tell you that I heard a difference when I installed it where my 50 cent contractor special was. Even though I go through a tol panamax conditioner/protector I still heard improvement. Even if not audible you will know that you have a great connection point to power all your gear. btw...can be had here for about half price from time to time. Just purchased some myself.
bdevil
2 posts
 
as I see it, you have two choices- good surge protection with its insurance against loss (ie" namebrand surge strips- Tripplite/APC have guarantees for equipment way beyond your $ investment.) from my experience, even the well built tripplite isobar line doesn't do much for noise, unfortunately, you can't block 60Hz, .... but for about $75, you have a very solid surge strip.

next test is simple- plug it all in- you have good judgment, I think two strips is a good idea... before you go nuts, realize, the whole house is on the same bus- dimmmers, microwaves, ballasts- they are all connected. and connected to everyone elses house! transformers on the powerpoles do some isolation, but if your power company can read you meter over the grid, then, you know it is all connected.

the only thing a dedicated "home run" can give you is Amperes up to its rating before it trips. that is the sad truth. no isolation from the rest of the noise in the house.

as far as your equipment, the Amperes it is pulling, you could put it all together and it won't overload the 20amp circuit.

best bet is to See/listen to it. this could be "end of story" you are happy, and can conclude you read too much and worried too much.

Choice 2
or else, you will be in my situation- considering expensive devices like power regenerators. in my case, I am trying to isolate the circuit with the noise, by turning off all the other breakers, then find the dimmer or whatever that is causing the noise.

I hope your quick test- plug it all in, succeeds!
More to discover