AC Power


I have a relatively nice system, but have done nothing with my AC power, with the exception of upgraded PC’s and a cheap iFi plug in power conditioner. My question is multi fold… do I need to do something, and if so what? Dedicated line (15A or 20?)? Quality power conditioner? Both? Which one first? How do you tell?

My system is a combination of HT & 2 channel & I tend to use both simultaneously as I like to watch sports while listening to music.
My amp is (I think) a relatively low draw… Moon 330A, Rythmik sub, BHK pre, Aurender, Qutest w/Sbooster, R11’s. No high power amps are in my future & never listen above 75db. I do currently plug my amp directly into the wall. All my wall warts are gone. For my HT, add a 75” Sony TV, Marantz 7015 AVR & a Klipsch sub (although at zero volume the AVR & sub should not come into play).

I am considering buying the Furman IT-Reference 15i or 20i first as they are well reviewed & are priced very well on Amazon ($1,400 / $1,900). Before I pull the trigger, should I go dedicated power & at what amperage (my nephew, an EE & audiophile thinks I am drawing no more than 5 amps) as that will dictate the Furman model?

Interesting, my nephew thinks neither are worth the investment. His statement: “Do you have appliances on the circuit now? What kind of interference can they inject?...voltage drops would come from current draws...which trip breakers.
Not steady 60hz a good power supply handles. So it all comes back to was the power supply engineer dropped on his head as a child.”

”Personally I think it’s something audio people do when they have run out of gear to buy.”

Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

signaforce

@immatthewj - The confusion is two different types of isolation we were discussing. I’ve long advocated for separating grunge producing devices from analog devices, especially on the "clean" side of a power conditioner, and the OP in this thread has discovered why. Several of my blog posts advocate using an inexpensive Furman power strip ( < $200) for your network and digital devices to prevent them from re-pollute a previously cleaned AC line.

When I say I’d prefer regulation vs. isolation, that is in the context of balanced power conditioners which use a transformer to galvanically isolate (kind of) the wall power from your devices. My years of watching the AC power line while my system plays has taught me that my biggest issues are fluctuating AC voltages, so I’d rather spend money there than on a big isolation transformer which can only really deal with short term transient issues.

Of course, if you can do both, that’s ideal! :D But from a dollar value point of view, a good regulator is a lot less expensive and will do more for you.

. . . Digital & analog isolation is critical… those who recommend it are apparently correct…

My first power conditioner in 2000 - A Bob Crump* designed Bybee Line Sucker - had separate analog & digital isolation. Easy to hear the difference. Currently, I have separate power conditioners which completely isolate analog from digital - and digital from digital.

For those who would like to take a deep dive into clean power, here is a link to observations by member, Kingrex. He specialized in wiring high-end recording studios and dedicated listening rooms - including Michael Fremer’s.

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* Bob Crump voiced the circuitry for the original Parasound JC-1 monoblocks. He partnered with John Curl on several audio projects.

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kingrex

It is my experience through many people asking for my assistance to eliminate some sort of noise, I find the issue is the audio equipment itself that is the culprit.  I have seen it with 3 year old 40K monoblocks to brand new $20K phono stages. 

If you want to get some of the effect of a good power conditioner at a cheap price than look for an original used monster cable hts-2000 power filter strip.

released around 2010 it works quite well and very noticeable positive effect on SQ.
can be had used for less than $50 on eBay.

 

I have several on secondary system and have given several to friends with entry level high end gear.

@erik_squires Erik, I have a $50 APC surge protector power strip for my modem, CD player, DVD & VCR on the same circuit as the rest of my equipment on my 2400. Except for the modem, the rest are seldom if ever used.
I assume you would recommend further isolation and the Furman power strip would do that? Thanks!

OP:

 

I’m of the school of thought that if you can’t hear it, you can’t hear it! So I don’t think that’s a bad arrangement in terms of audio.

However, in terms of surge vulnerability the modem is a concern. When I first moved to my current home in 2021 we had 4 homes with surge damage from the cable modem. Luckily everyone but me used Wifi, but I was OK. It’s not uncommon for a surge to enter a home through the coax cable and fry a number of Ethernet connected devices. The surge can enter via the coax and then find a path to ground via either the power supply or the Ethernet cables, if any. For these reasons I recommend:

  1. Use a coax surge protector OUTSIDE thee home like this one.
  2. Isolate your modem’s Ethernet connection using an isolator like this one or an Ethernet to fiber adapter
  3. Put the Modem’s power supply outside of any surge protection used for sensitive audio equipment.

Of course, I may be more paranoid than most due to living in a lightning prone area. Some A’goners have never had lightning damage so they don’t understand the fuss. :D  Also, if all you use is Wifi you are less vulnerable to surges than those of use who hardwire their work PC's and HT systems.

PS - The issue is true for ANY copper based conductor, so cable TV, antennas, etc.